The inner workings

Did you know that our designer Matthew Deponte makes 90% of the clothing and stock by himself?........Yeah, pretty insane to say the least.


Now we know that this is entirely unconventional for most fashion brands. Usually, the case is that the designer will design a collection, send it off to a sample/pattern maker, and then once approved the designs go into production. For Crisiswear this isn’t the case. We are smaller than you ever imagined.

  Fueled mostly by caffeine, a rather insane work ethic and unparalleled creativity, Matthew is driven to push the limits of the common definition of apparel. He is classically trained as a designer, illustrator, pattern maker, sample maker and a rather skilled stitcher. Everything from start to finish is accomplished in-house. All of his pattern work is drafted by hand with a roll of pattern paper, various rulers and a pencil. This is where it all starts and we will let him explain the finer details:


Matthew:

"Let me start by saying all of the above is true and I think the best way to justify it is to just call it what it is,  an unhealthy artistic obsession to create. Now with that being said let’s begin:

Here is a snapshot of my process to give you a more in-depth insight to how I create designs for the Crisiswear world. It all starts with rough sketched out ideas/ concepts and is slowly finalized until the design feels right or rather holds weight.

 Now, I know what you may be thinking, next comes patterns and sample making. Well, your not wrong, but you are definitely not right as it isn’t necessarily in that order. Pattern making isn’t as easy as you may think and it is super time consuming, at least the way in which I tend to do it is. I don’t use digitized or patterning programs, this is all old skool analog style.

  Each pattern depending on complexity can take up to 2 weeks to complete. Now the reason for this is the process. First a basic pattern block is made to ensure the cut and fit is correct. Then a basic sample is made. This is done to ensure the design translates from 2D to 3D successfully. Honestly most of the designs I’ve created on paper don’t always translate well in physical form and half the time design changes while it’s being patterned. Once all the possible fit issues have been solved then I work on finalizing the pattern from the block and then move on to grading which is a term used to describe the process of building size runs patterns from the original. Usually a size run for us involves up to eight individual sets of patterns. Creating the size run patterns is the most exhausting and my least favorite part of the process as it is super labor intensive. 

Next I start cutting the fabric or fabrics chosen to properly highlight the design in it’s entirety. When a new style is created we tend to do small runs to test the market and see what interests our clientele. I am not a fan of waste so by making a quantity of 2 to 4 garments per size it ensures that we don’t have too much deadstock incase the clothing isn’t received well. Again depending on the complexity of the garment this process could take up to 4weeks to complete. 

Let’s do some math to really drive the point home and help you understand what all of this means. For example:  generally a single pair of our pants (from start to finish) takes about 3hrs to complete. So if we have if we have 7 sizes- XXS to XXL and need to create 2 to 4 garment stock per size then the total maximum hours required to do so is 42 to 84 hrs. Mind you when cutting multiple garments at the same time it does save a minimal amount of time, but not nearly as much as you might think."


They say if you do what you love you’ll never work a day in your life, well “they” were wrong. In fact you work harder, sacrifice more, and strive unconditionally to be the best at what you do.


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